Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Blancpain in high gear



by Elizabeth Doerr

When long-time aficionados consider Blancpain, most think of elegant, round, classic timepieces and the words of former CEO Jean-Claude Biver ringing in one’s ears: “We will never make a quartz watch!” While battery-operated timepieces remain thus far taboo at Blancpain, the company’s current CEO, Marc A. Hayek, is now leading this Swatch Group firm in a fairly new direction.

New feel for luxury
The new vision didn’t happen overnight. It’s a strategy that has probably been a long time coming. Luxury—like everything else in life—is subject to trends. Many solvent young professionals no longer enjoy the “stuffy” side of luxury as much as the previous generation. They are looking for luxury that fits their lifestyle and doesn’t need to conform to preconceived ideas.
Hayek started working at Blancpain in 2001 at the age of 30 and became its CEO one year later. Needless to say, Hayek is a prime example of his own target group. One might even say that he would know better than anyone else what someone in his own shoes is going to buy.

Visibility
Visitors to BaselWorld 2009 were already treated to a harbinger of the new concept: one of the Lamborghinis racing in the Super Trofeo series graced the vestibule of the centrally located booth, causing quite a stir among passersby. Neighboring booths were additionally treated to a periodic engine roar emanating from loudspeakers.
The automobile theme did not end there: once inside the Blancpain booth, the new watches presented were far different from those introduced at Basel in years past. The classic Fifty Fathoms sports watch concept was taken a step further, and the L-evolution was introduced to the waiting watch world along with the Super Trofeo Chronograph.

SIHH: The Lange 1815 Moonphase Returns




Lange 1815 Moonphase FA Lange Edition

2010 is Lange’s 165th anniversary, and to mark the occasion they are creating new versions of 3 well-known models in a new metal called honey gold, which is not only a unique color, but it is also nearly twice as hard as regular gold. Together, the new models are known as the F. A. Lange Homage Collection. Among the new releases is an 1815 Moonphase.

The original 1815 Moonphase limited edition from 1999 was a hit with collectors, selling at auction for nearly triple the original selling price. This newest version will certainly carry on that tradition. Limited to 265 pieces and with a European MSRP of 18,500 euro, the new 1815 Moonphase case and balance cock are formed from Lange’s new and proprietary honey gold. Like the other pieces in the Homage to F.A. Lange Collection, the 1815 Moonphase also features three-quarter plate with hand-engraved traditional decoration. Of course the moon phase display is accurate to an amazing 1 day in 1058 years.

Complete technical specifications appear below the image, which you may enlarge with a click.

Lange 1815 Moonphase F.A. Lange Homage Collection

Technical Details

Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L943.2, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards and largely decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, with
sunburst finish; balance cock in honey-colored gold, engraved by hand

No. of movement parts: 220

No. of jewels : 26

Escapement : Lever escapement

Oscillation system: Shock-resistant glucydur screw balance, superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, whiplash-spring beat adjustment system

Power reserve: 45 hours when fully wound

Functions: Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds; moon-phase display

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time, push piece for the moon at 10 o’clock

Case dimensions : Diameter: 37.4 millimeters; height: 8.9 millimeters

Movement dimensions: Diameter: 27.5 millimeters; height: 3.9 millimeters

Case: Honey-coloured gold

Dial : Solid gold, argenté, guilloched; lunar disc in solid honey-colored gold

Hands: Blued steel

Glass and caseback: Antireflection-coated sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Strap: Hand-stitched, red-brown crocodile strap with Lange prong buckle in solid honey-coloured gold

Edition: 265 watches

SIHH: IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph




IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph

IWC brings the Yacht Club back in the iconic Portuguese case as the 45.4mm Yacht Club Chronograph, the first sporty model in the Portuguese family. The movement is IWC’s manufacture caliber 89360. Its chronograph permits the recording of aggregate times of up to twelve hours on the common counter for the minutes and hours and can be reset to zero via the flyback function at any time while running, so that it is instantly ready to start measuring a new time.

Built for sea duty, a screw-in crown and crown protection help protect against the elements, and the case offers 6 bar water resistance. Consistent with the sporty theme, this watch has luminescent indices and hands – a first in the Portuguese family.

The Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph is available in three variants:

- steel with a silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated luminescent hands and appliqués.

- steel with a black dial, silver-plated flange and rhodium-plated hands and appliqués, also luminescent.

- 18 carat red gold with a slate-colored dial with a sun pattern ground finish, subtly contrasted by the black small seconds display circle and the black ring for the aggregate minutes of the chronograph. This model is distinguished additionally by gold-plated hands and solid red gold appliqués.

All three variants are worn on a black rubber strap with a folding clasp. The sapphire-glass back offers a clear view of the IWC-manufactured movement with double-pawl winding.

The Yacht Club Chronograph is priced at $12,600 in steel and $23,100 in red gold. Look for it at IWC boutiques in June, with a broader launch in September.

Additional technical details appear below the images, which can be enlarged with a click.

IWC Yacht Club Chronograph

IWC Yacht Club Chronograph

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph

Chronograph with IWC-manufactured automatic movement and IWC’s double-pawl winding, flyback function, stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds, hour and minute counters combined in a single subdial at 12 o’clock, date display, small hacking seconds, crown protection

Movement: Calibre 89360

- Beats: 28,800/h
- Jewels: 40
- Power reserve: 68 h
- Winding: automatic

Glass: sapphire, convex, anti-reflective coating on both sides

Back: see-through sapphire-glass back

Crown: screw-in

Water-resistant to 6 bar

Diameter 45.4mm

Height 14.5mm

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph